FestiFi Trouble Shooter
Let’s get your WiFi back up and running
Start Here
Which FestiFi product do you have?
Check the label on your Pelican case if you’re not sure.
FestiFi Deploy
What’s going on with your Network-in-a-Box?
Deploy includes: USG Max gateway, 8-port switch, 5 APs, Starlink Mini, and T-Mobile 5G backup — all in one Pelican case.
Setup Guide
Setting up your Deploy for the first time? Follow these steps in order.
Step-by-step setup:
- Open the Pelican case and identify the components: USG Max (gateway/router), 8-port switch, 5 APs, Starlink Mini, T-Mobile hotspot, Ethernet cables, and power supplies.
- Set up the Starlink Mini outdoors with a clear sky view. Unfold the kickstand (or use the pole mount), plug in the power cable, and wait 3–5 minutes for it to connect (solid white LED = connected).
- Power on the T-Mobile FX3100 (5G backup). Plug it in and wait for a solid blue (5G) or green (LTE) light.
- Connect WAN sources to the USG Max:
- Starlink Mini → Port 5 (globe icon) on the USG Max
- T-Mobile FX3100 → Port 4 on the USG Max
- Connect the switch: Ethernet cable from Port 1 on the USG Max → the back port on the 8-port switch.
- Power on the USG Max and switch.
- Deploy the APs: Distribute the 5 APs across your coverage area. For best results:
- Hardwire APs to the switch with Ethernet cables (best performance)
- If wiring isn’t possible, the APs will mesh wirelessly — just power them on
- Spread them evenly — avoid clustering
- Keep APs away from large metal objects
- Mount higher than head level when possible — people’s bodies block WiFi
- Wait 3–5 minutes for everything to boot. The APs will show a solid blue LED when they’re online and broadcasting.
- Test: Connect to #FestiFi WIFI (password: $upport1!) and verify internet access.
Port cheat sheet: On the USG Max — Port 5 (globe icon) = primary WAN (Starlink), Port 4 = backup WAN (T-Mobile), Port 1 = switch uplink. Don’t mix these up!
Custom WiFi: If your organization ordered custom network name(s), those are pre-configured and will also broadcast from the APs. The default #FestiFi WIFI / $upport1! is always available as a fallback. Custom networks have their own passwords — check with whoever ordered the service.
No WiFi
Not seeing any FestiFi WiFi networks?
Deploy has multiple components — the issue could be the gateway, the switch, or the APs themselves.
Work through these in order:
- Check the APs: Are any of the 5 APs showing a solid blue LED? Blue = online and broadcasting. If all APs are dark (no LED), they’re not getting power or network.
- Solid blue = working
- Blinking white = still provisioning (give it a few more minutes)
- Solid white = factory default / not adopted (contact FestiFi)
- Off = no power
- Check the switch: Is the 8-port switch powered on? Are any port link lights on? If the switch is dead, no wired APs will work.
- Check the USG Max: Is the gateway powered on and showing normal indicator lights?
- Check cabling:
- USG Max Port 1 → switch back port (this feeds the whole network)
- Each wired AP → a switch port (NOT the gateway)
- All cables firmly clicked in on both ends
- Important: APs must be plugged into the switch, not the USG Max gateway. The gateway ports are not PoE — they won’t power the APs. If an AP is plugged directly into the gateway, it will have network but no power.
- If APs are meshing wirelessly: At least one AP needs to be hardwired to the switch. The mesh APs need that wired AP as their uplink. If the wired AP is down, the mesh APs have nothing to connect to.
- Power cycle the core: Unplug the USG Max and the switch. Wait 30 seconds. Power on in order: USG Max first → wait 1 minute → then the switch. The APs will come back online automatically once the switch is up — no need to unplug them. Allow 3–5 minutes for full startup.
AP placement reminder: Mount APs higher than head level when possible. People’s bodies block WiFi signal — the fewer obstacles between the AP and your device, the better the connection.
Everything is powered, cabled correctly, and still no WiFi?
Contact FestiFi — we can remotely check the gateway and AP status through the UniFi controller.
Can’t Connect
You see the network but can’t join it?
Check the password
- The default network is #FestiFi WIFI and the password is: $upport1! — watch for common typos: it starts with a dollar sign ($) and ends with exclamation mark (!).
- If your organization ordered a custom network name, it will have its own password — check with whoever ordered the FestiFi service for those credentials. The default #FestiFi WIFI / $upport1! network is always available as a fallback, but that password won’t work on a custom network (and vice versa).
- Try “Forget” the network on your device, then reconnect with the password.
- If you can connect to #FestiFi WIFI but not a custom network (or vice versa), the passwords are separate — double-check you’re using the right password for the right network.
Password is correct but still won’t connect?
- Move closer to the nearest AP — if you’re at the edge of coverage, your device may see the network but fail to authenticate.
- Make sure you’re connecting to a FestiFi network, not a default UniFi network.
- Restart your device’s WiFi (toggle off/on).
- Try connecting to a different AP area — if one AP is overloaded, another may accept connections more easily.
Placement tip: People’s bodies block WiFi signal. If you’re having trouble connecting, move to where you have a clearer line of sight to the nearest AP — fewer people between you and the AP means a stronger signal.
No Internet
Connected to WiFi but can’t reach the internet?
Deploy has dual WAN — Starlink (primary) and T-Mobile 5G (backup). If both are down, there’s no internet.
Check the WAN sources:
- Starlink Mini (primary):
- Is it powered on? Solid white LED = connected, blinking white = searching.
- Does the dish have a clear sky view? Even partial obstruction (tree branches, tent edges) causes problems.
- Is the Ethernet cable from the Starlink firmly plugged into Port 5 (globe icon) on the USG Max?
- T-Mobile FX3100 (backup):
- Is it powered on? Solid blue = 5G, solid green = LTE, blinking red = no service/SIM error.
- Is the Ethernet cable plugged into Port 4 on the USG Max?
- If blinking red, try moving it to a window or higher location for better cell signal.
- Check the USG Max: Is the gateway on? Is the cable from Port 1 going to the switch? The gateway is what routes internet to the entire network.
- Power cycle in order: Unplug Starlink and FX3100 → wait 30 seconds → plug both back in → wait 3–5 minutes for reconnection.
Dual WAN failover: The USG Max automatically switches between Starlink and T-Mobile. If Starlink drops, T-Mobile takes over — no action needed. If both are down, check power and cabling for each device individually.
Both WAN sources are up but still no internet?
The USG Max may have a routing issue. Contact FestiFi — we can remotely access the gateway and diagnose.
Slow or Dropping
WiFi is connected but performance is poor?
Try these steps:
- How many people are connected? Deploy supports 1,000+ users across the network, but individual APs can get overloaded. Spread people across different APs if possible.
- Check AP placement: Are the APs evenly distributed? If people are clustered around one AP while others are idle, redistribute.
- Height matters: APs mounted higher than head level perform significantly better. People’s bodies block WiFi signal — the more bodies between a device and the AP, the worse the connection.
- Wired vs mesh APs: APs hardwired to the switch always perform better than mesh (wireless) APs. If a critical area is slow, try running an Ethernet cable to that AP.
- Check the WAN side:
- Starlink: does the dish still have a clear sky view? Has anything moved or blown into its path?
- T-Mobile: solid blue or green? If red/blinking, cell signal may have degraded.
- Interference: Large metal objects, generators, LED walls, and other electronic equipment can interfere with WiFi. Move APs away from these sources.
Cell signal tip: The T-Mobile FX3100 and Starlink Mini both perform better at elevated positions. If the T-Mobile device is low and surrounded by people/structures, move it higher or closer to a window/opening.
Consistently slow across the whole network?
- Power cycle the USG Max (unplug 30 sec, replug, wait 3–5 min). This resets routing and may help.
- Power cycle the Starlink and T-Mobile devices.
- If Starlink was the primary and dropped to T-Mobile backup, speeds may be lower on cellular alone — this is normal.
Still having issues?
Available 24/7 — we can check your network performance remotely
Partial Coverage
WiFi works in some areas but not others?
This usually means one or more APs are down, misplaced, or not meshing properly.
Check the APs in the dead zone:
- Find the AP nearest the dead zone. Check its LED:
- Solid blue = it’s online (the issue may be range/placement)
- Off = no power — check the Ethernet cable (for wired APs) or that it’s plugged into a working outlet
- Solid white = not adopted — contact FestiFi
- Blinking white = still provisioning — give it a few more minutes
- If the AP is blue but coverage is weak: Move it closer to the area that needs coverage. Avoid placing APs behind walls, metal structures, or near the ground.
- If using wireless mesh: The mesh AP needs a strong signal from a wired AP. If it’s too far away, it either won’t mesh or will have very weak throughput. Move it closer to a wired AP, or run an Ethernet cable to it for the best result.
- Redistribute: If all 5 APs are online but coverage is uneven, adjust their positions. Aim for even spacing with overlapping coverage zones.
- Height: APs work best when mounted above head level. Even setting an AP on top of a table, shelf, or equipment case makes a big difference compared to floor level.
Wired is always better: If you’re having mesh reliability issues, the best fix is running an Ethernet cable from the switch to the AP. Even a long cable run beats a weak mesh link.
Need help optimizing placement?
Available 24/7 — we can check AP status remotely and help plan placement
Power Issues
Which component won’t power on?
Deploy has several separate devices — let’s narrow down which one has the issue.
USG Max Power
The USG Max gateway won’t turn on?
Check these:
- Power adapter: Is it plugged into a working outlet? Try a different outlet.
- Power cable: Firmly connected on both ends (wall adapter → gateway)?
- Indicator lights: Any lights at all on the front of the device? Even a brief flash on power-up means the device is receiving power.
- Try a different power adapter if available — the adapter may have failed.
No signs of life at all?
The gateway or its power supply may be damaged. Contact FestiFi — this is the core of the network and needs replacement ASAP.
Switch Power
The 8-port switch won’t turn on?
Check these:
- Power adapter: Plugged into a working outlet? Try a different one.
- Power cable: Firmly connected on both ends?
- Port lights: If the switch is on, you should see link lights on any ports that have active Ethernet connections.
- If the switch won’t power on, all wired APs downstream will also be offline. Mesh APs will also fail since they need at least one wired AP as an uplink.
Switch is dead?
Contact FestiFi — the switch is critical and needs replacement. As a temporary workaround, you can plug one AP directly into the USG Max (Port 2 or 3) to get limited WiFi while waiting.
AP Power
One or more APs won’t turn on?
Check these:
- Is the AP plugged into the switch? APs must be connected to the 8-port switch, which provides PoE (power over Ethernet). The USG Max gateway ports are not PoE — if an AP is plugged into the gateway instead of the switch, it won’t get power.
- Wired AP: Is the Ethernet cable firmly plugged in at both ends (AP and switch)? The cable provides both power and network. No cable = no power.
- Try a different switch port. If the AP doesn’t light up, the port may be faulty — plug into a different one.
- Try a different Ethernet cable. A damaged cable won’t deliver power.
- Mesh AP (wireless): These need their own power source (power adapter or PoE injector). Is it plugged in?
- Check the LED: If the AP shows a solid white LED, it has power but isn’t adopted to the network — contact FestiFi. If it’s blinking white, it’s still provisioning — give it a few minutes.
One AP down? The network still works — the remaining APs continue to provide coverage. Redistribute the working APs to cover the gap while troubleshooting the dead one.
Starlink Power
The Starlink Mini won’t turn on?
Check these in order:
- Outlet: Is the outlet working? Try plugging something else into it.
- Power supply: Is it plugged in and does it have an indicator light?
- Power cable: Check both connections — the wall end and the dish end. The USB-C connector on the dish end should be fully seated.
- Cable LED: There’s a small LED on the USB-C connector:
- Steady on = good power delivery
- Blinking = not enough power — try a different outlet
- Off = no power reaching the cable
- The Starlink Mini needs 65W+ to operate properly. Make sure it’s not sharing a circuit with too many other devices.
Remember: The Starlink is just one WAN source. If it’s down, the T-Mobile FX3100 automatically takes over as backup — your network still has internet. You can troubleshoot the Starlink without the whole site going offline.
T-Mobile Power
The T-Mobile FX3100 won’t turn on?
Check these:
- Power adapter: Plugged into a working outlet? Try a different one.
- Power cable: Firmly connected on both ends?
- LED check:
- Solid blue = connected to 5G (good)
- Solid green = connected to LTE (good, slightly slower)
- Blinking red = SIM error or no service — try moving it to a higher position or near a window
- No lights = no power
- Try holding the power button for 3 seconds — some units have a manual power toggle.
Remember: The T-Mobile FX3100 is the backup WAN source. If it’s down but Starlink is working, your network still has internet. Fix it when you can, but it’s not an emergency.
FestiFi Go
What’s happening?
Pick the one that best describes your situation.
No WiFi Network
Is the UniFi access point (the flat white/grey disc) showing a light?
It’s the flat device mounted on top of or inside the case, connected via Ethernet cable.
Solid blue = working normallyPulsing white = still bootingNo light = not getting power
AP Working — No WiFi
The access point looks healthy. Let’s check your device.
Try these steps:
- On your phone/laptop, pull down the WiFi list and look for #FestiFi WIFI — that’s always available. If your organization ordered a custom network name, look for that too (check the WiFi credentials email from FestiFi).
- Make sure you’re within about 100 feet of the case.
- Try toggling WiFi off and back on on your device.
- If you still don’t see it, try “Forget” any old FestiFi networks and scan again.
Still not seeing it?
The SSID may need to be re-broadcast. This requires a remote fix from FestiFi — contact support.
AP Still Booting
The access point is still starting up.
Give it a few minutes
- The UniFi AP takes 2–3 minutes to fully boot after power is applied.
- Wait until the light turns solid blue.
- Once blue, your WiFi network should appear within 30 seconds.
Been more than 5 minutes?
If the light is still cycling/pulsing after 5 minutes, try unplugging the PoE injector (the small box between the power strip and the AP), wait 10 seconds, and plug it back in.
Still not turning blue after a reboot?
Contact FestiFi support — the AP may need a remote reset.
AP No Power
The access point isn’t getting power. Let’s trace the connections.
Check these in order:
- Power strip: Is it plugged into a working outlet? Is the switch on?
- PoE injector: Is it plugged into the power strip? Does it have a small light on it?
- Ethernet cables: Two cables should be connected:
- Modem → PoE injector (data in)
- PoE injector → AP (power + data out)
Make sure both are firmly clicked into place.
- Try swapping the Ethernet port on the PoE injector — one port says “POE” or “Data+Power” (goes to AP), the other says “LAN” or “Data” (goes to modem). Make sure they’re not switched.
Everything is plugged in correctly and still no light?
The PoE injector or AP may be faulty. Contact FestiFi support for a replacement or remote diagnosis.
Can’t Connect
You see the network but can’t join it?
Check the password
- The default network is #FestiFi WIFI and the password is: $upport1! — watch for common typos: it starts with a dollar sign ($) and ends with exclamation mark (!).
- If your organization ordered a custom network name, it will have its own password — check with whoever ordered the FestiFi service for those credentials. The default #FestiFi WIFI / $upport1! network is always available as a fallback, but that password won’t work on a custom network (and vice versa).
- Try “Forget” the network on your device, then reconnect with the password.
Password is correct but still won’t connect?
- Make sure you’re connecting to #FestiFi WIFI (or your organization’s custom network name) — not the modem’s built-in WiFi (which may also be visible).
- If you’re on an older device, try moving closer to the case.
- Restart your device’s WiFi (toggle off/on).
Slow or Dropping
WiFi is connected but performance is poor?
Try these steps:
- Move closer to the case — best performance is within 50 feet.
- Check how many people are connected. The FestiFi Go supports up to 50 users. If you’re at a busy event, congestion is possible.
- Check the modem signal. Open the case and look at the 5G modem:
- Verizon cube: Solid white = good. Red = weak signal.
- T-Mobile FX3100: Blue = 5G. Green = LTE (slower but working).
- AT&T Nighthawk: Check bars on the screen — more bars = better.
- If signal is weak: Try moving the case to a different spot — closer to a window or higher up often helps.
Placement matters: People’s bodies block WiFi and cellular signal. The more people standing between you and the access point, the weaker your connection. If possible, place the AP (or the whole case) above head height — on a table, shelf, or mount — so there’s a clear line of sight between the AP and your devices.
FestiFi Go trick: Because the Go has a separate AP on a cable, you can put the case outside (or on top of an office container, trailer, etc.) for better cellular signal, then run the AP inside through a window to get WiFi where you need it.
Signal is strong but still slow?
Carrier network congestion at your location may be the issue. FestiFi monitors your connection remotely — contact us and we can run diagnostics.
No Internet
Connected to WiFi but can’t reach the internet?
This usually means the 5G modem has lost its connection to the carrier.
Check the modem
- Open the case and look at the 5G modem’s indicator:
- Verizon cube: Should be solid white. Red = no signal.
- T-Mobile FX3100: Should be solid blue or green. Red = problem.
- AT&T Nighthawk: Screen should show signal bars. “No Service” = problem.
- If the modem shows no signal or an error, power cycle it: unplug the modem from the power strip, wait 30 seconds, plug it back in. Wait 2–3 minutes for it to reconnect.
- After the modem reconnects, also power cycle the PoE injector (unplug, wait 10 sec, replug) to reset the AP’s connection.
Modem looks fine but still no internet?
- Check that the Ethernet cable from the modem to the PoE injector is firmly connected on both ends.
- Make sure you’re on #FestiFi WIFI (or your organization’s custom network) — not accidentally connected to the modem’s own WiFi.
Tried everything above?
Contact FestiFi — we can check your modem remotely and may need to push a configuration update.
No Power
Nothing in the case is turning on?
Check from the wall to the case:
- Outlet: Is the outlet working? Try plugging something else into it (phone charger, lamp, etc.).
- Extension cord: If you’re using one, make sure it’s rated for the load and fully connected at both ends.
- Power strip (inside the case): Is it switched on? There’s usually a switch or indicator light on the strip.
- Individual devices: Both the modem and PoE injector should be plugged into the power strip. Check that they haven’t come loose during shipping.
Power strip is on but devices aren’t responding?
Try plugging the modem directly into the wall outlet (bypassing the strip) to rule out a bad power strip.
Still nothing?
Contact FestiFi support — we’ll arrange a replacement or walk you through additional steps.
Go Failover
What’s happening?
Your Failover unit is a single Peplink device — it’s the router, modem, and WiFi access point all in one.
No WiFi Network
Check the lights on the front of the Peplink device.
The Peplink BR1 Mini 5G is the only device in the case — it handles everything (modem + router + WiFi).
Status solid green = device is readyStatus solid red = still bootingNo lights = no power
Device Ready — No WiFi
The Peplink looks healthy. Let’s check your device.
Try these steps:
- On your phone/laptop, pull down the WiFi list and look for #FestiFi WIFI — that’s always available. If your organization ordered a custom network name, look for that too (check the WiFi credentials email from FestiFi).
- Make sure you’re within about 100 feet of the case.
- Toggle WiFi off and back on on your device.
- Try “Forget” any old FestiFi networks and scan again.
Still not seeing it?
- Try power cycling the Peplink — unplug it, wait 30 seconds, plug it back in. Wait 2–3 minutes for it to fully boot (status light goes green).
- If WiFi still doesn’t appear after reboot, contact FestiFi — the SSID may need to be re-configured remotely.
Device Booting
The Peplink is still starting up.
Give it a few minutes
- A solid red status light means the device is booting. This normally takes 2–3 minutes.
- Wait for the status light to turn solid green.
- Once green, the WiFi network should appear within 30 seconds.
Red light is blinking?
A blinking red status light means a boot error. Try unplugging the Peplink, waiting 30 seconds, and plugging it back in.
Still red after 5+ minutes or blinking red after reboot?
Contact FestiFi support — the device may need a remote reset or replacement.
Can’t Connect
You see the network but can’t join it?
Check the password
- The default network is #FestiFi WIFI and the password is: $upport1! — watch for common typos: it starts with a dollar sign ($) and ends with exclamation mark (!).
- If your organization ordered a custom network name, it will have its own password — check with whoever ordered the FestiFi service for those credentials. The default #FestiFi WIFI / $upport1! network is always available as a fallback, but that password won’t work on a custom network (and vice versa).
- Try “Forget” the network on your device, then reconnect with the password.
Password is correct but still won’t connect?
- Make sure you’re connecting to #FestiFi WIFI (or your organization’s custom network name) — the Peplink may also broadcast its own default network name, which won’t work for you.
- If you’re on an older device, try moving closer to the case.
- Restart your device’s WiFi (toggle off/on).
Slow or Dropping
WiFi is connected but performance is poor?
Try these steps:
- Move closer to the case — best performance is within 50 feet.
- Check how many people are connected. The Go Failover supports up to 50 users. High usage = slower speeds for everyone.
- Check the cellular LED on the front of the Peplink:
Solid green = connected to carrierOff = no cellular connection
- If cellular LED is off or blinking: The device may be switching carriers (auto-failover). Give it 1–2 minutes to reconnect.
- Try repositioning the case — closer to a window or higher up can improve cellular signal.
Good to know: Your Failover unit has multiple SIM cards and automatically switches to the best available carrier. Brief slowdowns during a carrier switch are normal.
Placement matters: People’s bodies block WiFi and cellular signal. The more people between you and the device, the weaker your connection. If possible, place the Peplink above head height — on a table, shelf, or elevated surface — so there’s a clear line of sight between the device and your phone/laptop. For cellular signal, placing the case near a window or outside helps too.
Signal looks good but still slow?
All carriers in your area may be congested. FestiFi monitors your connection remotely — contact us and we can check your signal quality and carrier status.
No Internet
Connected to WiFi but can’t reach the internet?
This usually means the Peplink has lost its cellular connection on all SIMs.
Check the Peplink
- Look at the front panel LEDs:
Status green + Cellular green = should be workingStatus green + Cellular off = no carrier connectionStatus red = device is still booting
- If the cellular LED is off or blinking, wait 2 minutes — the device may be switching between carriers.
- If it doesn’t come back, power cycle: unplug the Peplink, wait 30 seconds, plug it back in. Allow 2–3 minutes for full boot + carrier connection.
Peplink shows green on both LEDs but still no internet?
- Make sure you’re on #FestiFi WIFI (or your organization’s custom network) — not a different network.
- Try opening a browser and going to a simple site like google.com — some apps may fail while web browsing works.
Tried everything above?
Contact FestiFi — we can remotely check the device, SIM status, and carrier connections.
No Power
The Peplink isn’t turning on?
The Failover case has just one device — the Peplink router/modem. It needs its power adapter plugged into a working outlet.
Check these in order:
- Outlet: Is the outlet working? Try plugging something else into it.
- Extension cord: If using one, make sure it’s fully connected at both ends.
- Power adapter: Is the Peplink’s power adapter plugged in? Check both the wall/strip end and the device end.
- Try a different outlet to rule out the power source.
Still nothing?
The power adapter or device may be faulty. Contact FestiFi support — we’ll arrange a replacement or walk you through additional steps.
Go Satellite
What’s happening?
Your Satellite unit uses a Starlink Mini — a flat dish that connects to satellites for internet.
Setup Guide
Setting up your Starlink Mini for the first time?
Step by step:
- Find a spot with clear sky. The dish needs an unobstructed view overhead — no trees, awnings, or roofs blocking it. Newer Minis can point straight up.
- Set up the dish. Use the included kickstand or pole mount adapter to position it.
- Plug in the power supply (wall wart) to an outlet, and connect the power cable to the Starlink Mini.
- Wait 3–5 minutes. The dish will automatically find and connect to satellites. The LED on the unit will flash white while searching, then turn solid white when connected.
- Connect to WiFi. Look for #FestiFi WIFI on your phone/laptop. If your organization ordered a custom network name, that will also be available.
- Default password:$upport1! — this works for the #FestiFi WIFI network. If your organization ordered a custom network name, it has its own password — check with whoever ordered the service.
Pro tip: Download the Starlink app (iOS/Android) and connect to the WiFi. The app can check for obstructions and help you find the best position for the dish.
WiFi not appearing after 5 minutes?
- Check the LED — if it’s still blinking white, the dish hasn’t locked onto satellites yet. Try a more open location.
- If no LED at all, check that the power supply cable LED is on (steady = enough power, blinking = insufficient power).
- Note: the LED turns off automatically after about an hour of normal operation — if you had a connection before and the light is just off, you’re probably fine. Check if the WiFi still works.
No WiFi Network
Check the LED on the Starlink Mini dish.
The Starlink Mini is the flat dish — it’s the modem, router, and WiFi access point all in one.
Solid white = connected and workingBlinking white = searching for satellites / bootingNo light = no power (or auto-off after ~1 hour — that’s normal)
Dish Connected — No WiFi
The Starlink looks healthy. Let’s check your device.
Try these steps:
- On your phone/laptop, pull down the WiFi list and look for #FestiFi WIFI — that’s always available. If your organization ordered a custom network name, look for that too (check the WiFi credentials email from FestiFi).
- Make sure you’re within about 75 feet of the dish.
- Toggle WiFi off and back on on your device.
- Try “Forget” any old FestiFi networks and scan again.
Still not seeing it?
- Power cycle the Starlink — unplug the power cable, wait 30 seconds, plug it back in. Wait 3–5 minutes for it to reconnect to satellites and start broadcasting WiFi.
- If WiFi still doesn’t appear, contact FestiFi — the SSID may need to be reconfigured.
Searching / Booting
The Starlink is still trying to connect.
This is normal at first — give it time
- Blinking white = searching for satellites. This can take 3–5 minutes on first boot.
- Once the light turns solid white, the WiFi network will appear.
- Note: the light auto-turns off after about an hour of normal operation — that’s normal and doesn’t mean it’s disconnected.
Still flashing after 10 minutes?
- Check for obstructions — the dish needs clear sky. Trees, buildings, awnings, even heavy cloud cover can block the signal.
- Try moving the dish to a more open location. Even a few feet can make a difference.
- Download the Starlink app (iOS/Android) — it has an obstruction checker that uses your phone camera to show what’s blocking the dish.
Good sky view but still can’t connect?
Contact FestiFi — there may be a Starlink service issue in your area, or the dish may need a remote configuration update.
Fusion / Fusion Max
What’s happening?
Your Fusion unit is a sealed Pelican case — all the networking hardware is built in. It sits flat with the FestiFi sticker facing up. The power cable plugs into the back of the case, and the WAN/LAN ports are on the side if you need them.
Setup Guide
Setting up your Fusion unit for the first time?
Step by step:
- Open the case and grab the AC power cable (stored inside). You’ll see the battery screen — that’s the only internal component you need to interact with. The router and access point are sealed inside (by design).
- Open the vent fans on the sides of the case. These small vents are required for airflow — especially if you’ll be running with the lid closed.
- Plug the AC power cable into the port on the outside back of the case. No need to keep the case open — the power port is external. The router and access point will power on automatically and start broadcasting WiFi within a few minutes.
- Close the lid if desired — the case is waterproof and designed to run fully closed (as long as the vents are open).
- Connect to WiFi. Look for #FestiFi WIFI on your phone/laptop. If your organization ordered a custom network name, that will also be available.
- Default password:$upport1! — this works for the #FestiFi WIFI network. If your organization ordered a custom network name, it has its own password — check with whoever ordered the service.
External ports (back of the case): You’ll see 2 WAN ports and 2 LAN ports with waterproof covers.
- WAN ports: Plug in a Starlink or other internet source here to add bandwidth on top of the built-in cellular. The router bonds them automatically.
- LAN ports: Hardwire devices (POS systems, printers, streaming rigs) directly into the network here.
Important — open the vents! The vent fans on the sides of the case must be open during operation. Running with vents closed can cause the internal components to overheat, especially in warm environments or direct sunlight.
Battery note: When plugged into AC, the battery charges but doesn’t turn on. If you need to run without AC power (the battery lasts 5–6 hours), press the battery power button inside the case. The battery screen will show charge level and confirm the device is powered on.
Placement: Set the case flat on a surface with the FestiFi sticker facing up. For best WiFi coverage, place it above head height when possible — on a table, counter, or shelf. If people are sitting around a table, the middle of the table works great.
No WiFi Network
The Fusion is a sealed unit — you can’t see the internal LEDs, and that’s by design. Let’s work through what we can check.
Try these steps:
- Is it plugged in? The AC power cable connects to the port on the outside back of the case (the cable is stored inside). Check that it’s connected to a working outlet. If running on battery, open the case and check the battery screen — it should show the device is powered on.
- Is it actually running? Listen for the vent fans — they’re powerful and easy to hear. If the side vents are open, you’ll feel a strong draft of air. Fans running = the unit is on. No fan sound = it hasn’t powered up yet (check the AC connection).
- Give it time. After plugging in, the internal router and AP take 2–3 minutes to boot and start broadcasting WiFi.
- On your phone/laptop, look for #FestiFi WIFI — that’s always available. If your organization ordered a custom network name, look for that too (check the WiFi credentials email from FestiFi).
- Make sure you’re within range — about 100 feet of the case.
- Toggle WiFi off and back on on your device. Try “Forget” any old FestiFi networks and scan again.
Still no WiFi after 5 minutes?
- Power cycle: Unplug the AC cable, wait 30 seconds, plug it back in. Wait 2–3 minutes.
- If you’re running on battery, press the battery power button to turn it off, wait 30 seconds, then turn it back on.
Check the vents! If the vent fans on the sides are closed, the internal hardware may have overheated and shut down. Open the vents, let the case cool for a few minutes, then power cycle.
Still nothing after power cycle + vent check?
Contact FestiFi — we can remotely diagnose the internal router and AP.
Can’t Connect
You see the network but can’t join it?
Check the password
- The default network is #FestiFi WIFI and the password is: $upport1! — watch for common typos: it starts with a dollar sign ($) and ends with exclamation mark (!).
- If your organization ordered a custom network name, it will have its own password — check with whoever ordered the FestiFi service for those credentials. The default #FestiFi WIFI / $upport1! network is always available as a fallback, but that password won’t work on a custom network (and vice versa).
- Try “Forget” the network on your device, then reconnect with the password.
Password is correct but still won’t connect?
- Make sure you’re connecting to #FestiFi WIFI (or your organization’s custom network name) — the internal router may also broadcast its own default network, which won’t work for you.
- Move closer to the case — if you’re at the edge of range, your device may struggle to connect.
- Restart your device’s WiFi (toggle off/on).
Placement tip: People’s bodies block WiFi signal. If you’re having trouble connecting, try moving to where you have a clearer line of sight to the case — fewer people between you and the unit means a stronger signal.
Slow or Dropping
WiFi is connected but performance is poor?
Try these steps:
- Move closer to the case — best performance is within 50 feet with clear line of sight.
- Check how many people are connected. The Fusion supports up to 100 users (Fusion Max: 150). High usage means slower speeds for everyone.
- Check the case placement:
- Is it sitting flat with the sticker facing up? (The AP is in the lid — this orientation matters.)
- Is it elevated? Place it above head height when possible — on a table, counter, or shelf.
- If people are sitting around a table, put it in the center of the table.
- Check cellular signal: If you’re indoors, try moving the case closer to a window or outside — the internal cellular modems need signal too.
Placement matters: People’s bodies block WiFi and cellular signal. The more people standing between you and the case, the weaker your connection. Elevating the case above the crowd makes a big difference — even putting it on a chair or table helps.
Good to know: Your Fusion unit uses a bonded tunnel across multiple cellular carriers — all radios work together simultaneously, so there’s no failover interruption like a traditional setup. If one radio switches to a stronger carrier, you might notice a brief dip in overall throughput during high-bandwidth activity, but the connection never drops.
Check the vents! If the case is running with the lid closed and the vent fans aren’t open, the hardware may be throttling due to heat. Open the vents and give it a few minutes to cool down.
Good placement but still slow?
All carriers in your area may be congested. FestiFi monitors your connection remotely — contact us and we can check signal quality and carrier status.
No Internet
Connected to WiFi but can’t reach the internet?
This usually means the internal cellular modems have lost their carrier connections.
Try these steps:
- Wait 1–2 minutes. The Fusion bonds multiple carriers — it may be switching between them. Brief interruptions during a carrier switch are normal.
- Check your network: Make sure you’re on #FestiFi WIFI (or your organization’s custom network) — not a different network.
- Try a browser test: Open a browser and go to google.com — some apps may fail while web browsing still works.
- Power cycle: Unplug the AC cable, wait 30 seconds, plug it back in. Allow 2–3 minutes for the internal router to reboot and reconnect to carriers.
- If on battery: Check the battery screen — if charge is very low, the device may not have enough power. Plug in AC power.
Check the vents! Overheating from closed vents can cause the cellular modems to drop their connections. Open the vents if they’re closed.
Tried everything above?
Contact FestiFi — we can remotely check the internal router, SIM status, and carrier connections.
No Power
The unit doesn’t seem to be on?
The Fusion is a sealed case — there are no visible power LEDs. But there are two easy ways to tell it’s on: listen for the fans (they’re loud — you’ll hear them) and feel for airflow through the side vents. If WiFi is broadcasting, that’s confirmation too.
Check these in order:
- AC power: The power cable plugs into the port on the outside back of the case. Is it firmly connected? Is the outlet working? Try a different outlet.
- Power cable: The cable is stored inside the case — make sure you’ve pulled it out and connected it to both the case and the wall.
- Wait 2–3 minutes after plugging in — the internal router takes time to boot.
- Listen and feel: Put your ear near the case — you should hear the vent fans running. If the side vents are open, you’ll feel a strong draft of air being pulled through. Fans running = the unit is powered on and working.
- Check WiFi: Look for #FestiFi WIFI on your phone/laptop — that confirms the AP is up too.
- Check battery (optional): Open the case and look at the battery screen.
- If the screen is on, the battery is active and the device should be powered.
- If the screen is off and you’re on AC, that’s normal — the battery doesn’t auto-turn-on when on AC power. The router still powers up from AC independently.
- If you need to run on battery (no AC), press the battery power button. The screen should light up showing charge level.
- If battery screen shows low/empty charge and you’re not plugged into AC — plug in. The battery needs to charge before it can power the device.
Plugged in, waited 5 minutes, fans running, but still no WiFi?
If you can hear the fans but no WiFi network appears, the router is powered but the AP may have an issue. Contact FestiFi — we can remotely diagnose it.
Wired Device
A device plugged into the LAN port isn’t working?
The 2 LAN ports and 2 WAN ports are on the outside back of the case, with waterproof covers.
Check these in order:
- Right port? Make sure you’re plugging into a LAN port, not a WAN port. WAN ports are for incoming internet sources (like a Starlink). LAN ports are for your devices.
- Waterproof cover: Make sure the waterproof port cover is fully opened/removed — it can prevent a cable from seating properly.
- Ethernet cable: Is it firmly clicked in on both ends? Try a different cable if you have one.
- Device side: Does the device’s Ethernet port show a link light? If not, the cable or port may be bad.
- Is the Fusion powered on? Listen for the vent fans (loud, easy to hear) and feel for airflow through the side vents. WiFi should also be broadcasting. The LAN ports only work when the unit is running.
- Try the other LAN port — if one port isn’t working, the other may.
WAN ports: If you’re trying to plug in a Starlink or other internet source for extra bandwidth, use the WAN ports instead. The router will automatically detect and bond the connection with the built-in cellular.
Still not working?
Contact FestiFi — we can remotely check the router’s port configuration.
Can’t Connect
You see the network but can’t join it?
Check the password
- The default network is #FestiFi WIFI and the password is: $upport1! — watch for common typos: it starts with a dollar sign ($) and ends with exclamation mark (!).
- If your organization ordered a custom network name, it will have its own password — check with whoever ordered the FestiFi service for those credentials. The default #FestiFi WIFI / $upport1! network is always available as a fallback, but that password won’t work on a custom network (and vice versa).
- Try “Forget” the network on your device, then reconnect with the password.
Password is correct but still won’t connect?
- Make sure you’re connecting to #FestiFi WIFI (or your organization’s custom network name) — the Starlink may also show a default “Starlink” network, which won’t work.
- Move closer to the dish — the Starlink Mini’s built-in WiFi has a smaller range than a dedicated access point (about 75 feet).
- Restart your device’s WiFi (toggle off/on).
Slow or Dropping
WiFi is connected but performance is poor?
Try these steps:
- Move closer to the dish — the Starlink Mini’s built-in WiFi works best within 50 feet.
- Check the LED on the dish:
- Solid white = satellite connection is good (issue is likely WiFi range or congestion)
- Blinking white = intermittent satellite connection (likely obstructions)
- No light = may be normal (auto-off after ~1 hour) — check if internet actually works first
- Check for obstructions. Even partial blockage (tree branches, tent edges) causes drops. Use the Starlink app to check.
- Check how many people are connected. The Go Satellite supports up to 50 users.
About Starlink speed: Starlink typically delivers 50–200 Mbps with ~30–40ms latency. Brief drops (a few seconds) are normal as the dish switches between satellites.
Placement matters: People’s bodies block WiFi signal. The more people between you and the Starlink Mini, the weaker your connection. Since the dish needs to stay outside with a clear sky view, try to position it elevated and as close as possible to the area where people will be using WiFi — a shorter path through fewer walls and people means better performance.
Frequent drops or very slow?
- Try repositioning the dish — even a few feet can eliminate an obstruction.
- If the dish has been running for hours, a power cycle can help (unplug 30 sec, replug, wait 3–5 min).
- Starlink can experience network congestion in high-demand areas. Contact FestiFi and we can check your connection quality remotely.
No Internet
Connected to WiFi but can’t reach the internet?
This means the Starlink has lost its satellite connection.
Check the dish
- Check the LED:
- Solid white = should have internet — try step 3
- Blinking white = searching for satellites
- No light = either no power, or auto-off after ~1 hour (check if WiFi still works)
- If blinking white: Check that the dish has clear sky view. Has anything changed (tent flap, vehicle parked nearby, heavy cloud cover)?
- Power cycle: Unplug the Starlink, wait 30 seconds, plug it back in. Allow 3–5 minutes for satellite reconnection.
- If the LED is solid white but you still have no internet, make sure you’re on #FestiFi WIFI — not a different network.
Tried everything above?
Contact FestiFi — there may be a Starlink outage in your area, or the dish may need account-level troubleshooting.
No Power
The Starlink Mini isn’t turning on?
Check these in order:
- Outlet: Is the outlet working? Try plugging something else into it.
- Power supply (wall wart): Is it plugged in and does it have an indicator light?
- Power cable: Check both connections — the wall wart end and the dish end. The USB-C connector on the dish end should be fully seated.
- Power cable LED: There’s a small LED on the USB-C connector:
- Steady on = good power delivery
- Blinking = not enough power — try a different outlet
- Off = no power reaching the cable
- Try a different outlet — the Starlink Mini needs 65W+ to operate properly.
Power supply LED is on but dish still won’t start?
The power cable or dish may be damaged. Contact FestiFi support for a replacement.